Cost of Living in Chapala

A reader asked us about the cost of living in Chapala and housing availability. We suspected that the cost of living question would arise, yet I write this with some trepidation. The cost of living here is dependent on two major variables and boy do they vary.

So let’s unpack the variables. Let’s go with the simpler one first: the relative value of the (for us) U.S. dollar and the Mexican peso. Over the last few years, the peso has been declining in relative value to the dollar, so in that sense the cost of living in Mexico has become increasingly less costly. At present, we are withdrawing from our U.S.-based bank accounts at an exchange rate of between 17 and 18 pesos. Just a few years ago, the exchange rate hovered around 10 pesos to a dollar. So, relatively speaking Mexico has gotten cheaper and cheaper for those with U.S. dollars.

[A parenthetical insert here–locally the prices in pesos are symbolized exactly like both U.S. and Canadian currency. This still knocks us for a loop on occasion. Walking into Walmart, you’ll immediately see laptops and HD tvs, with $ signs on them in the thousands. Not to worry, the prices are in pesos, so yes, you have to do the math to approximate what you’re paying in U.S. or Canadian currency.]

The second variable about the cost of living in Chapala is the most difficult to gauge: lifestyle.

For example, we currently rent an apartment (called a condominium here) for $650 U.S. dollars. This is a little bit on the pricey side in Chapala. Perfectly decent one bedroom apartments can be had for as little as $400. Typically, apartments come with utilities included in the rent, although this is not always so.

In our case, we get electricity, water, trash collection, and internet included with our rent. (We also have a pool just off our back patio….and we are just two blocks from the lake and the malecon.)

Now I am talking cost of living in Chapala specifically here. Once you look in Ajijic you have a different story. Ajijic is generally more upscale and the costs of renting reflect that difference. Yes, you can find rentals in Ajijic on the lower side, yet prices of $800 to $1200 U.S. are more abundant (again here, one to two bedrooms).

From there, you can rent all the way up into the thousands of dollars per month.

As to availability, supply is more limited in the snowbird months of November to April than from May to October. That said, our observation is that it is relatively easy to find rentals at any time. The Lake Chapala Society in Ajijic has a bulletin board with listings as does the local Walmart (it’s on the wall near the shopping carts). Also, just walking around you’ll see For Rent (En Renta) signs on potential dwellings. Also literally just ask around as you explore.

If you have a vehicle you will be paying about the same price for fuel as in the U.S.

Where we observe the biggest differences in the cost of living in Chapala are with food and healthcare.

We’ll explore these in our next post, coming soon.

Living la vida calma, Bob and Bonita


A Musical Paradise Too

If you’re wondering whether you’d have to give up a musical life if you move to Chapala, you can rest assured you’ll find a rich, abundant musical culture here.  Music is everywhere here. Find a musical life in Chapala.

Almost every evening we take a stroll on the malecon. And almost every evening we do, we enjoy roving bands of musicians serenading a couple or a family who have engaged them for a song. Mariachi of course and several other styles of Mexican music. Tubas are really big here for some reason, almost as popular as accordians, which are ubiquitous. Not to be confused at all with the Lawrence Welk style or even the polka styles of Germany and Poland. The Mexican musicians have made it their own.

We enjoy lots of actual concerts here as well. Everything from Mexican pop music to traditional music to standard classical music with a Mexican twist.

Last night we walked up to the old train station in Chapala, a beautifully restored building from some one hundred years ago. It’s now used as a museum/art center. The Orquesta Tipica de Chapala performed a delightful concert which was a true mosh pit of musical styles. Many of the tunes reminded me of the soundtracks of great films from the 1940s and 1950s, such as Treasure of the Sierra Madre.

Almost twenty musicians packed the small stage. Violins, guitars, auto-harp, salterios, congas, upright bass, harp, and a giant marimba. It took four energetic players for the marimba alone.

Check out the video below for a sample of the evening:

Today we’re headed into Guadalajara to hear the Jalisco Philharmonic Orchestra perform Tchaikovsky’s Piano Concert No. 1 and Rachmaninoff’s Symphonic Dances.

Next month we head there for a musical festival with David Byrne, Alanis Morissette, and The Killers headlining.

Are we living the musical life in Chapala? Yes, indeed we are.

And here’s another longer selection from Orquesta Tipica de Chapala:

Tips and “Tricks” of Daily Life in Chapala

We’ve learned to keep our ears and eyes wide open here in Chapala. Daily life in Chapala is quite similar to our life in the U.S. in some ways. In others, quite different. Here are some of the seemingly random differences.

Everywhere you go here, you will have Mexicans approach you offering something for sale or for some service, such as washing your car. I stand of awe of these folks. They are doing everything they can to support themselves and their family. However, we can’t buy everything we’re offered. So we compromised and buy what we need or want and simply say, Gracias, no, to the rest. Once we say no, such vendors move on.

You will find some folks simply looking for a handout. Your choice. The social safety network is not as well developed here as in the U.S. so folks are trying to make their way as best they can.

And speaking of working hard, at the big-box stores in Chapala, such as Soriana (grocery and variety) and Walmart de Mexico, you’ll have your purchases bagged by what to us appear to be store employees. But they are not. Upon more than a casual glance, the baggers have not store employee ID’s. They are, in fact, volunteers. So slip them a little change in pesos for their service. That’s their only compensation.

Another big difference is that despite the traffic on the main drag on this, the north side of Lake Chapala, the cities of Chapala and Ajijic and other enclaves that border the lake, are heavily pedestrian. And the pedestrians here more often than not simply walk as they need. Yes, there are crosswalks and lights at some key locations. For the most part, however, pedestrians go where they wish. When we driving, we can find this quite frustrating. However, when we are walking, which, in truth, is most of the time, we very much appreciate it.

Rules of the Road–Driving in Mexico Part 1

Driving in Mexico holds an adventure all its own. While we have relatively limited driving experience here, we have accumulated some observations that we believe can be helpful to those who follow. We certainly wish we had had some warning of the differences between driving here and driving in the U.S.

We were reminded of this yesterday when we mounted our first expedition to attend the Met at the Movies series at Teatro Diana in Guadalajara. Coming out of Chapala, it’s a straight shot up a divided four (and sometimes six) lane highway past the airport and in Guadalajara Centro.

We rely on Google for directions here. And yesterday, Google routed us off that main highway, saying that there was a major accident causing at least a half-hour delay to our destination. So we followed directions to skirt the accident. It worked by taking us into an industrial area of the city. Lots of turns and lots of……….speed bumps.

Yes, speed bumps. You can find yourself cruising along a Mexican road, could be one of the excellent toll roads, could be a crowded city street, when, bam, you hit a speed bump.

Here in Chapala, we’re used to them. We know where they are and we slow to a crawl to cross them. It’s just become a habit. Yet, when we venture outside Chapala, it’s easy to forget that speed bumps are not unique to our chosen city. They are a feature of driving in Mexico.

And yesterday, we were not so nicely reminded of this in making that detour in Guadalajara.

Some of them are indeed just bumps. Others are, if not speed mountains, at least hills. You really know it when you hit on cruising along at 40 or 5o mph. Gut-rattling to be sure.

Now, some of them are marked by the universal yellow warning sign. Others may be foreshadowed by a warning painted on the pavement if you are paying attention. Others simply appear. No warning.

Experience has taught us it carefully watch the traffic ahead of and around us. Especially the semi’s. In the U.S. if we were driving on a divided four-lane and saw a semi slowing (braking), we’d take a careful assessment of conditions and merrily pass, assuming safe conditions.

In Mexico, we have learned the hard way that the semi driver knows the route and is likely alerting us to the dreaded speed bump.

In the U.S., the few speed bumps one encounters are usually painted bright yellow.

Not so here. Indistinguishable from the road. Rarely painted. And when painted, a relatively dark grey.

So, be careful out there driving in Mexico.

And speed-bumps are just one difference. In future posts, I’ll let you know about others we have experienced.

Dogs of Chapala

When I attended college, back in the 70s, our campus featured many of what we called “quad dogs”. We students never quite knew where they came from, or, when they disappeared, they went. Were they strays? Simply “wild” dogs? Escapees from the local animal shelter? No one knew or, really, seemed to care.

All we knew was they were harmless and happy and they lent a certain panache to the campus. Friendly faces all.

Likewise, here in Chapala.

If you’re not a fan of dogs, or at least simply tolerant of them, Chapala isn’t the place for you.

They’re everywhere. Roaming the streets and the mercado. The first time I went to one of the butchers at the mercado I must admit I was taken aback by the furry friends standing and milling about among the human patrons. They weren’t trying to steal any meat and they always seem to politely defer to humans. Yet there they were. And to this day I can count of seeing dogs at the carniceria.

Often we’ll see dogs sprawled out on the sidewalk or by the side of the street, lounging or catching a few zzz’s before strolling along down the street.

We’ve never encountered a dog fight; despite their numbers, los perros (“the dogs” in Spanish) play and romp together. In ones and twos or threes. We have yet to see a pack roaming around either.

Now add in all the domesticated dogs, the dogs leashed by humans or guarding houses or behind the walls of the streets. What totals out is a very dog-friendly environment.

In fact, the only times we’ve encountered noisy dogs are those guarding a territory. The dogs that roam the streets are remarkably quiet and docile.

In Chapala, it’s live and let live. Dogs and humans. We love it.

Chapala Facelift

Last week Bonita and I made a quick trip to Houston. On our return, which coincided with the end of Carnival, we found that the city restoration program has progressed significantly. In our last post (which you can find here), I described the streets of Chapala and mentioned the restoration program. Well, in the course of a week, the program had beautiful results, especially on our street. Check this out:

Bright colors, fresh paints, streets paved in stone squares and curbs and corners marked for parking/no parking and handicap access are now all in place on almost the entirely of our street.

Oh what a mix of colors and textures. Would this pass muster in city codes in the U.S. and Canada? Probably not. But this is Mexico and folks here like local flair and colorful paint. And it totally works.

The city is hard at work on the streets. Yes, it’s disruptive and messy, yet the results are bearing fruit. I must admit, I hold my head a little higher now walking down our street to the city center and our favorite mercado.

We have particular favorites of the newly-painted homes and businesses. And if some are not quite to our tastes, we immediately spot many that are.

Chapalans are rightly pleased with the progress of the city. We love the friendly atmosphere and how much care and respect folks here have for the city and for each other. Come and enjoy.

Streets of Chapala

What do you notice most in this photo of a typical Chapala street?

Perhaps the paving? Yes, indeed, many of the streets, the residential streets at least, are paved with stone.

Or maybe the vibrant colors? The tightly clustered buildings are a kaleidoscope of eye-popping mixes.

Or the dust? It’s winter in Chapala and pretty dry (we only had two cloudy days in our first two months here and just a smattering of rain–every other day beautiful sun). Plus, there’s lot of road repair and construction happening all throughout downtown Chapala, part of an infrastructure upgrade and beautification project.

Part of the beautification program too is fresh paint on street-facing exteriors. Near us, some of the homes were recently painted.

Or the mixing of commercial and residential areas? It’s typical to pass house after house with a variety of shops on the ground floor (note that many buildings are two-story). Carnecias (butchers), tiny mercados (mini convenience stores would be the closest equivilent), pharmacies, professional services (doctors, dentists, tailors, key makers, bakers), and prepared food shops (typically selling one or two particular Mexican dishes).

The streets of Chapala are simply a feast for the eyes. But watch where you are going! The sidewalks are pretty narrow and often uneven.  And with workers doing repairs, painters, and sign hangers as well as loading and unloading happening, we’re compelled to step into the street with frequency.

Also, watch out for the dogs (and their droppings). There are lots of them roaming around and they have a habit of simply lying down on a sidewalk and sleeping. They’re all friendly (at least the ones we’ve encountered). Still, someone who has a dog phobia will find Chapala difficult to navigate.

We love walking the streets. It’s typical as a person passes by to greet them with a smile and an “Hola” or “buenos dias” (good day).

So buy yourself a couple of pairs of really comfortable walking shoes and join us. See you there!

P.S. If you’d like to receive a notification when we next post, please feel free to join our email notification list over in the right-hand column. Spam-free at all times.



Choosing Mexico? Part 1

We’d been talking about, planning, and dreaming about becoming expats for a very long time. Choosing Mexico as our first foray was not even on our radar scope until quite recently. So, friends and family ask, why Mexico? Of all the possibilities, how did Mexico become the focal point?

When we first started discussion a move outside the U.S., we focused primarily on Ecuador. I did all the usual vetting: International Living magazine, websites, blogs, books and the like. We focused primarily on Cuenca or Loja. Neither of us are beach people and we both like cooler weather, so the coast was out.

Good friends of ours made a similar decision and they executed pretty quickly. They took an exploratory (which we had yet to do) and decided on Manta. They adjusted pretty well and then came the earthquake in 2016. Manta was close to the epicenter and was badly damaged. Our friends had to quickly escape.

In addition to the earthquake (as if that wasn’t enough), they had issues with internet connectivity, which for us is mission critical. So with their direct experience and the relatively long travel distance to Ecuador, we moved it down on the list and began to explore anew.

Our friends told us that several of their friends in Manta were exploring Lake Chapala as an option. We had not really considered choosing Mexico as an option (oh, my, those drug wars and murders and don’t drink the water!).

Still, we started looking there. We discovered plenty of online resources. Plus, Bonita had already visited Mexico a couple of times in her life, so she was encouraging.

We started evaluating our must-haves. Availability of reliable internet connections? Check. Great weather? Check. Easy transit? Check. We were starting to become comfortable with choosing Mexico.

Were we concerned about the blizzard of negative publicity rampant in the U.S. about Mexico? About how “dangerous” it is? Of course. Yet, we also knew enough to undertake our own evaluation.

First, Bonita had been to Mexico as a tourist. She had had very pleasant experiences.

Second, I had travel experience in so-called dangerous zones. Back in 1999 I had visited Ireland. You may have to dredge your memory on that one, but at the time, the U.S. news was brimming with reports of street wars, murders, drive-bys and violence between Catholics and Protestants all stirred up in a stew of political drama with England and Ireland.

When friends heard I was going, I got severe warnings about how dangerous it was.

Of course, I flew to Dublin, stayed in Dublin, and loved Dublin. Turns out, all the “danger” was happening in Belfast, hundreds of miles away and then, only in a few neighborhoods. Now, should I be afraid to visit New York City because there are areas in NYC that I should avoid? I posit no. Just don’t go there and I’ll be fine.

Same in Ireland in 1999 and same in Mexico, 2017 and 2018.

So, having done our research, it was time for both of us to venture on an exploratory trip, which I will discuss in a subsequent post.


The Healthcare Experience in Chapala Mexico–Bonita’s Story Part 3

In Part 1 of Bonita’s story here and Part 2 here, Bonita is diagnosed with ovarian cancer and begins treatment in the U.S. After a well-earned vacation in Mexico, we contemplated, debated and then planned a provisional move there. Here is the conclusion of her initial experience with healthcare in Mexico.

We decided that the stars were aligned for a six-month over the winter trial in Chapala. I hand-carried copies of my recent scan results and other pertinent medical records with me. We got to Chapala early in December (2017) and one week later with arrangements made via email, I met with Dr. Diego in his clinic in Guadalajara and received my first infusion in Mexico my first deep experience of healthcare in Mexico.

THe staff greet me by name at the reception desk and personally escorted me up to the consultation room. Dr. Diego spent a half-hour with me reviewing the records and discussing the treatment plan to ensure that ti was the same that I had been receiving stateside. He then escorted me to the modern treatment room and introduced me to the nurses and the pharmacist who would be administering the chemotherapy.

The pharmacist interviewed me for medication allergies and surgical history. The nurse checked my vita signs and noted that my blood pressure was slightly elevated. She notified the doctor and he came back into the treatment room to discuss this and rechecked my blood pressure. He gave the go-ahead to proceed with the treatment but advised me that he would be watching the blood pressure and that there might be a need for additional medications to control it. The drug was administered with flushes befor and after over an hour.

The nurses and the doctor checked with me every ten to fifteen minutes. I ad no conerns. My bloos pressure did not go higher so no additional medication was prescribed. There was a very clean and comfortable bathroom just around the corner from the infusion room. The recliner in the influsion room was powered by an electronic controller. There was no television (which I did not miss). They offered me a beverage.

After the infusion, I was escorted to the reception area to make payment. The bill was exactly as quoted ahead of time and they were fine with taking my U.S. Visa card. The doctor did explain to me that his portion of the bill–$100 (U.S.); $2,000 (Mexican Pesos)–he would prefer payment in cash in pesos on subsequent visits.

I requested him to prepare a bill in U.S. dollars and his notes translated for submission to my insurance company in the U.S. He took my insurance information and said that they would take care of it.

I left the clinic very pleased and comfortable. He said he would email me the appointment time for my next treatment in two weeks.

We’re off to a very good start with healthcare in Mexico.

The Healthcare Experience in Chapala Mexico–Bonita’s Story Part 2

In Part 1 of this post, Bonita shared her journey with cancer and embarking on a vacation to Mexico for rest and investigation and the possibility of cancer treatment in Mexico.

Family voiced some trepidation about traveling and particularly traveling to Mexico. (Is it safe????)  Even so, we visited for two weeks as tourists on an informational quest, partly about cancer treatment in Mexico. We were wonderfully assisted along the way. One of our Air BnB hosts directed us to an insurance service that many expats in the Chapala-Ajijic area use. We also met with several agents at the Lake Chapala Society (an active group providing lots of local information to help expats learn the ropes).

We were dismayed to find that I am not insurable for cancer treatment in Mexico with my pre-existing condition. I would have to pay out-of-pocket for all cancer treatment. However, along with that “bad news” I was assisted by the insurance agent with Blue Angels to get an appointment with a local oncologist, in two days time nonetheless.

Dr. Diego Herrera works mostly in Guadalajara, yet visits a satellite clinic in Ajijic weekly. We had a very pleasant and informative visit. He assured me that I could receive the same treatment (chemo) that I was receiving stateside and was willing to get me a cost quotation to pay directly for the care.

This forty-five minute consultation cost me $40 (U.S.). I was greatly encouraged and began to correspond with Dr. Herrera via email periodically after we returned to Wisconsin to make additional preparations and further our “feasibility study.”

I was again very fortunate to learn that my employee “retired” insurance would reimburse me for cancer treatment in Mexico as long as it was consistent with my ongoing medical care (no “alternative clinics”). I would have to pay upfront, get the bills and medical records translated into English and U.S. dollars and be reimbursed rather than the doctor and clinic being paid directly by the insurer.

My U.S. doctor was very supportive of my decision to pursue treatment in Mexico. Once I got the dosages of the drugs from my WI provider–which was not as easy to do as I assumed it would be–I emailed that information to Dr. Herrera and within a week had my quote.

The treatment being provided in the U.S. at a cost of about $57,000 per month would cost about $15,000 (U.S.) in Mexico. A lot to pay out-of-pocket, but $40,000 less per month is substantial. The cost of the periodic scans I need to document response to therapy is $14,000 (U.S) in Wisconsin and $4,000 (U.S.) in Mexico.

I was very impressed with how much more transparent the pricing and billing is outside the U.S. In Mexico, all citizens have access to basic healthcare and treatment at state-owned facilities, for free. Those with better financial means can purchase affordable insurance with allows access to well-run private hospitals and clinics.

For expats, private insurance in Mexico is more affordable than the “affordable care act” coverage in the U.S. In the Chapala area, we can also purchase a clinic membership that allows full access to physician services in that clinic for about $300 (U.S.) a year. Lab tests, x-rays and pharmacy service are independently paid by the patient. For under $2,000 (U.S.) per year, an expat can buy more comprehensive coverage or catastrophic coverage.

To be continued.